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Writer's pictureGeneviรจve Dussault

Above The Seams : ๐™’๐™๐™–๐™ฉ ๐™ž๐™จ ๐™ฉ๐™๐™š ๐™ง๐™ž๐™œ๐™๐™ฉ ๐™ฅ๐™ง๐™ž๐™˜๐™š ๐™ฅ๐™ค๐™ž๐™ฃ๐™ฉ ๐™›๐™ค๐™ง ๐™–๐™ฃ ๐™š๐™ฃ๐™ฉ๐™ง๐™ฎ ๐™ฆ๐™ช๐™–๐™ก๐™ž๐™ฉ๐™ฎ (๐™›๐™ž๐™ง๐™จ๐™ฉ) ๐™จ๐™ช๐™ž๐™ฉ?

Updated: Feb 29


I get asked this question often by younger men starting out in their careersโ€ฆ


I always tell them the following:


1. ๐…๐จ๐ซ๐ ๐ž๐ญ ๐š๐›๐จ๐ฎ๐ญ ๐ฒ๐จ๐ฎ๐ซ ๐๐ซ๐ž๐š๐ฆ ๐›๐ซ๐š๐ง๐. I can point you to ten tailors who will make you a suit 10x better than any luxury brand for half the price. Look into your local old guyโ€™s. They arenโ€™t out to stiff you. They genuinely love their craft.


2. ๐ƒ๐จ๐ง'๐ญ ๐›๐ฎ๐ฒ ๐จ๐ง๐ฅ๐ข๐ง๐ž. You can still find guys out there making good fused two-piece suits locally for around 1400. Although I donโ€™t personally sell fused, if youโ€™re on a tight budget and need a couple suits quick and all at once, donโ€™t be afraid to get a few. But keep in mind, this will not last if you wear your suits regularly.


3. ๐’๐š๐ฏ๐ž ๐ฎ๐ฉ. Try to break out of your IKEA mindset. If you want the veneered particle board equivalent of suits because itโ€™s fast and cheap and looks really nice on that extremely fit model with perfect camera work and lighting, then prepare for a lifetime of disappointment. Not at first, as it will look nice initially โ€ฆ but not after a few uses and wears. Instead, save up for that solid wood tableโ€”The one your children will hand down to their children. You can find very beautiful, locally made half and full canvas made suits from small shops everywhere.


5. Understand ๐ฒ๐จ๐ฎ'๐ซ๐ž ๐ฉ๐š๐ฒ๐ข๐ง๐  ๐Ÿ๐จ๐ซ ๐ญ๐ก๐ซ๐ž๐ž ๐Ÿ๐š๐œ๐ญ๐จ๐ซ๐ฌ (if you remove branding from your mind):

i. Amount of handwork vs. machine stitching

ii. Manufacturer and quality of the cloth selected

iii. Service, Guarantee of work, craftsmen skills, design

So seeing as there are so many moving partsโ€” You need to understand that if you set a budget of $2000 for a half canvassed suit, you have to make sacrifices somewhere else. A master tailor will generally take around 80 hours of handwork to make ONE suit. Whatโ€™s that manโ€™s lifetime of knowledge worth? 100 an hour? So minimum 8,000 for a fully hand stitched suit? Donโ€™t believe anyone selling you some nonsense that their suit is all hand stitched at a low price point. It just isnโ€™t true, and itโ€™s insulting to those who do the real thing.


6. Find and ๐›๐ฎ๐ข๐ฅ๐ ๐ญ๐ซ๐ฎ๐ฌ๐ญ with an atelier/clothier/salesman. Many atelier shops out there will sell you fantasy, while behind closed doors ship their measurements off to little factories (the usual suspects) with little hands sewing away at it. Ask your salesmen/atelier/clothier WHERE and HOW his products are made.


Good luck out there, men!ย 


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