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BESPOKE VS MTM

Understanding

BESPOKE

There is no governing body that determines what can be called Bespoke; however, there is an unspoken understanding among true tailors and Sartorialists worldwide as to the basic requirements:

  • Created in a workshop by Craftsmen. This is in contrary to a factory made operation where each individual worker is tasked with one repetitive task, and speed and efficiency is the lead factor.

  • As close to fully (or fully) handstitched (limited machine work).

  • At the minimum:

      • Fully handsewn Jacket:

        • Canvas

        • Lapels

        • Buttons/Button Holes

        • Shoulders

    • As close to fully (or fully) handstitched (limited machine work) trousers.

  • A basted garment fitting process

  • Cutting and finishing tailors sourced in house (workshop), ensuring a quality control standard by a master tailor and not industrial QA controls.

  • Pressing inhouse or out of house.

The process will usually have a customer's measurement's taken, followed by a fitting, followed by the final garment. The issues in calling a product bespoke solely based on a basted fitting process, is this process does not in itself entail that the garment is bespoke. Companies can easily do all the work with machinery (low time input) while having a midpoint fitting. At Sallstroms, we use the term only for suits that have a high degree of handstitched work and price based on percentage of garment construction in this manner.

A truly Bespoke suit will on average take ~80 hours of work from master finishers, cutters, pressers.

MTM

The process entails taking the customers measurements or utilizing a fitting garment. After the initial measurements/fitting-garment, the data is sent for in or out of house manufacturing.   Our MTM suits will stil have hand stitched canvassing, lapels, buttons, buttonholes; however, more portions will be machine finished to offset savings to you.

Once completed the customer is presented with a finished garment for a fitting.

Take away

Sallstroms' is a family owned business, and as such, we apply our families values and moral codes to how we do business. It is for this reason we have complete transparency as to what your dollar is truly purchasing: What parts will be machine done and which parts will be handstitched. Of course, we allow customers to customize this to their budget and desires.

A key point is the amount of man hours required to make a fully bespoke suit (~80). There is no robot, AI, or super skill to avoid this. This is the hours required by men and women whom have spent a lifetime perfecting the craft. For this reason, we implore all consumers, whether they choose us or another manufacturer, to look with a suspicious eye on anyone pricing their Bespoke suits at bargain rates (sub ~3000) in North America. Just as a Seiko and Patek Philippe watch both tell the time, they are the end result vastly differently construction processes. Do not be fooled by beautiful photography and duplicitous tactics.

This is not to say that factory or MTM suits are unworthy of praise and your hard earned dollars. Every product has a place, just as a Bugatti vehicle may not be the best option for a family of 4, we believe in informing and working with you to find the best product to price value possible with a focus on YOUR lifestyle, YOUR requirements and YOUR vision.

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